Day 1-2: Historical Context                                                                               08-09/08/23

Today I had the privilege of learning about the complex historical and political context of the balkan states from Legis’ project manager, Jasmina. As someone who had no prior or basic knowledge of this extremely complex political landscape, I could only manage to take some shorthand notes from Jasmina’s in depth yet fast-paced discussion.

I believed it held significance to document these conversations, as they offer a backdrop to the projects undertaken by Legis’ and those I later elaborate on in subsequent journal entries. It’s equally crucial to acknowledge that the forthcoming instances of historical and political occurrences, instigated by governing bodies, serve as illustrations of why refugees and migrants seek a better life. Unfortunately refugees and migrants have minimal influence over conflicts that detrimentally affect both the economy and peace, consequently diminishing theirs and their children’s overall quality of life.

The United Nations (UN) became involved in Bosnia during the early 1990s due to the Bosnian War, which was a result of the breakup of Yugoslavia. The war started in 1992 and lasted until 1995. The conflict was complex and involved various ethnic and nationalist groups, including Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims), Croats, and Serbs. The war led to significant loss of life, displacement of populations, and destruction of infrastructure.

The UN’s involvement in Bosnia can be traced back to the deteriorating situation in the region and the international community’s efforts to find a peaceful resolution. The conflict had escalated into a brutal ethnic conflict, and there was a growing consensus that international intervention was necessary to end the bloodshed. This includes the 1995 Serbian genocide in which Bosnian Serb forces systematically executed thousands of Bosniak (Bosnian Muslim) men and boys. The exact number of victims is still debated, but it is widely recognized as one of the worst instances of mass violence in Europe since World War II.

The United Nations (UN) and United States engaged with Bosnia through negotiations and promptly formulated the The Dayton Agreement, also known as the Dayton Accords, in an effort to cease the ongoing war. However, a notable issue emerged due to the omission of recognition for minority groups in the country’s constitution. This omission subsequently triggered numerous territorial disputes.

The constitution of Bosnia and Herzegovina, as outlined in the Dayton Agreement, essentially entrenched the political power-sharing arrangement among the three main ethnic groups – Bosniaks, Croats, and Serbs – but it did not adequately address the rights and representation of other minority groups, such as Jews, Roma, and various ethnic communities.

Following the dissolution of Yugoslavia, it has been argued that there has been a recurring pattern of intolerance exhibited by Serbians towards other Balkan nations. Since the conflict, Macedonia has offered refuge to individuals displaced from Bosnia and Kosovo. Croatia has acknowledged and accepted responsibility for war crimes committed during the conflict, in contrast to Serbia, which has refrained from admitting its involvement.

Comparatively, Bosnia exhibits a higher degree of stability when compared to Kosovo and Serbia, both of which face persistent border-related challenges. Serbia adamantly refuses to acknowledge Kosovo’s independence, and it has been argued that the government actively encourages its citizens to adopt a similar stance. Serbia’s desire is for Kosovo’s status to be negated and for the territory to be incorporated into Serbia.

Serbia is observed to have engaged in provocative actions, including instances where Serbian police posed as civilians participating in protests against the Kosovo police, contributing to escalated tensions. The country has cultivated positive diplomatic relations with Russia, affording it limited exposure to international sanctions.

Arguably, Bosnia is in need of a revised constitution, but the population is disinclined towards conflict. Noteworthy divisions are present within Serbia, notably marked by cantons. Anti-Muslim propaganda has also been documented across balkan states. An illustrative example is the division of a school along cantonal lines in Bosnia. On the other hand,  the city of Sarajevo in Bosnia retains its status as the cultural hub of the former Yugoslavia. In terms of geography, people originating from Kosovo must journey to Skopje to acquire visas for entry into Bosnia. Notably, there are no direct train connections between Bosnia and Serbia; travel often occurs through Montenegro.

Serbia’s interference with the autonomy of neighbouring countries is evident. For instance, the provision of higher salaries and benefits to Serbians relocating to North Kosovo in support of Serbia’s political objectives has been reported. It has been argued that the European Union (EU) possesses knowledge of these actions but has refrained from imposing sanctions.

In summary, the dissolution of Yugoslavia marked a significant historical event with far-reaching consequences. The United Nations’ involvement in Bosnia aimed to resolve the conflict, but the constitution’s lack of minority group recognition caused further complications. Tensions persist between Serbia and its neighbours, with ongoing border disputes and differing levels of accountability for war crimes. Kosovo remains a subject of contention, as Serbia adamantly refuses to recognize its independence. The region’s complex dynamics include propaganda, division, and geopolitical influences that shape the current landscape.

Day 3-4: The Constitution                                                                                 09-10/08/23

The Macedonian conflict in 2001 originated from the dissatisfaction of the Albanian minority, as the largest minority in the country a decade after Macedonia gained independence in 1991 due to perceived inadequacies in their constitutional rights. This conflict resulted in fewer civilian casualties compared to previous wars in Croatia, Bosnia, and Kosovo. However, it was an unavoidable outcome because the Macedonian majority struggled to grasp the idea that granting rights to minorities wouldn’t equate to diminishing the rights of the majority, and that it would instead offer a peaceful resolution to the issues. Subsequently, the Ohrid Framework Agreement was established. This agreement outlined the necessary constitutional amendments, including increased rights for Albanians  and smaller minority groups such as access to higher education in their language, official status for the Albanian language in local municipalities, and proportional representation in public services like the military and police.

Prior to the new Macedonian constitution, it explicitly mentioned various minority groups such as the Turks, Vlachs, Serbs, Roma, and Bosniaks. Today, all minority groups are officially recognized and enjoy better integration in the country. However, Macedonia faces a new challenge in its journey towards EU negotiations. One of the conditions for initiating these negotiations is amending the constitution to include Bulgarians, Croats, and Montenegrins. Although history indicates that both majority and minority groups stand to gain rights rather than lose them, the opposition from right-wing parties is impeding the progress of this process.

Day 5: Helping the Local Community                                                                   11/08/23

This morning I helped fold up clothes donations, ordered them by size and gender, and placed them on the shelves. Though it wasn’t compulsory for me to organise them in this way, I felt it could possibly make their search for clothes a more pleasant experience, even if this represents a small gesture of support for individuals who possess very little.

In the afternoon, we were pleased to receive a donation from a new partner – a local young doctor’s association. We were able to hand out vitamins to those in need. This included people from the local community, Roma citizens, as well as migrants travelling through Macedonia. I also learned how to say ‘take one per day’ in Macedonian, but I have since forgotten…

Day 6-7: Peacebuilding Project                                                                        14-15/08/23   

Today I learned of the several ongoing projects of Legis and expressed interest for greater involvement in the ‘Transforming Balkan Futures Peace by Peace’. The thematic areas of this project are: (1) youth empowerment and (2) engagement in society. By means of education and a week-long road trip spanning Bosnia, Kosovo, Montenegro, and Macedonia, the project aims to cultivate a sense of peace among Balkan youth. These young individuals come from families that have experienced trauma due to the aforementioned conflicts, and are living in societies where governmental and political factions arguably endeavour to promote extreme nationalist ideologies. The students will be tasked to create a campaign that promotes acceptance of different cultures and ethnicities in the Balkans, which will be documented by Legis and promoted within each country.

1. In Bosnia, there will be talks from women survivors of the Serbian genocide, learning about their experiences and advocacy efforts.
2. In Montenegro, the children will explore cities that have retained their multicultural character, untouched by the war. They will also engage in discussions with individuals who serve as positive role models, demonstrating how politics has not compromised their perception of history and culture.
3. In Kosovo, children will visit the memorial centre for victims of the Kosovo-Serbia war and its lasting effects present today, as well as learning what can be improved for the future. Children will also be taught by the local municipality about how the political system works between local and diverse communities, as well as how they are represented.
4. In Macedonia, the children will meet the President of the Assembly of North Macedonia, who is of Albanian ethnicity and previously served as a commander of the Albanian units in the aforementioned 2001 conflict. Today, his complex role exists to manage all political ethnic parties representing: the Social Democratic Party, and parties representing Albanians, Turks, Roma, Bosnians and Serbians. Children will learn about the Ohrid Framework Agreement, and how multiculturalism is applied to this complex state system and constitution.

Eager to be part of this project, I offered to volunteer with Legis during the roadtrip, to which they agreed, depending on if we are successful in our grant proposal.

Day 8: Visiting the Vinojug Refugee Transit Centre                                            16/08/23

In the morning we began our 2 hour car journey to the southern border, between Greece and Macedonia, to visit the Vinojug refugee camp. During our journey, Yasmin, the President of Legis who shares the similar  name as the border manager, updated me about the role Legis played in assisting refugees along the highways we were travelling on. During 2015 and 2016, more than 850,000 refugees were officially passing through the border. At the beginning of this period, by Macedonian law the refugees were banned from public transport, so Legis played a huge role in helping repair refugees’ bicycles as they migrated across the highways. After witnessing the adult and children refugees struggle in the heat of their long and dangerous journey, Legis provided many lifesaving essentials and successfully lobbied the government to amend their policies to finally allow refugees access to public transport in June 2015. In total, Legis delivered 600,000 bags of food and 144,000 clothing items and free legal transit around this period.

However, in 2016, the southern border between Greece and Macedonia was closed due to new EU policies. This decision was made by a few EU countries such as Austria, Hungary, and Germany, which by March 2016, became EU policy. The new policies meant that all borders were closed from countries north of Macedonia (Serbia, Hungary, Croatia, Austria, etc), commonly known as the “Balkan Route” to western Europe, which left thousands of refugees stuck in Macedonia. At the time, Macedonia was merely considered a ‘transit country’ and therefore did not have the facilities to support refugees’ extended stay. As a result, many were placed into ‘transit camps’ that became severely overcrowded within inhumane conditions. Legis had been closely monitoring international debates on migration policies prior to the closure of western borders. Anticipating the refugee crisis, Legis advocated for the opening of the borders between Macedonia and Greece, along with the Turkish borders, as these points served as major entry routes for numerous refugees.

Regrettably, this suggestion was dismissed, resulting in NGOs like Legis and, on a larger scale, European nations outside the European Union, feeling excluded from the decision-making process. This has contributed to a sense of scepticism toward EU politicians and entities such as Frontex among these groups. Critics have pointed out that EU policies often overlook the interests of non-EU entities and can occasionally implement measures that prioritise their political objectives over upholding human rights principles. Upon arrival at the southern transit camp, I encountered a local policeman who informed me of the working relationship he has with Frontex who began working in the camp in April 2023. Frontex is part of the European Union’s ‘European Border and Coastguard Agency’, whose mission is to help European Union member states implement EU rules on external border controls and to coordinate cooperation between member states. Putting this into context, Frontex has worked with the local policeman of Macedonia to implement the EU laws and policies on migration. The local policeman is the deputy manager of the camp and was working with Frontex as a trainer on human rights during refugee registration.

To my surprise, more staff were situated in the camp than refugees. This included staff from Legis, the International Organisation for Migration (IOM), the UNHCR, the Red Cross of City of Skopje, Frontex and local Macedonian policemen. Each of these work collaboratively to process the refugees that are looking to cross the border from Greece to Macedonia. The local policeman informed me that approximately 50 refugees pass through the camp per day compared to more than 850,000 per year prior to 2015-2016. Though this could be interpreted to show the effectiveness of the EU policies, it has created a new issue of human traffickers smuggling refugees across the border.

Smugglers prey on the most vulnerable group of people, refugees, which often leads to many human rights abuses. This includes kidnapping, sex trafficking, forced labour and death from road accidents, physical exhaustion which leads to losing their limbs from attempting to cross train lines. The majority of refugees may not have ID rendering refugees vulnerable to go missing without a trace. At the camp, I was able to witness dozens of cars and trucks that police had caught from the smugglers who were attempting to smuggle refugees across the border. However, the number of smugglers caught is predicted to be less than those who aren’t caught. The President of Legis Jasmin informed me that an upcoming project is to lobby the authorities to remove the vehicles from the area to make positive use of the space for refugees, but also to prevent a dangerous explosion occurring due to the sun heating the gasoline inside many of the vehicles.

Although the closure of the border has significantly reduced the influx of refugees, there appears to be divided views regarding the efficiency of EU migration policies and their personnel, such as Frontex. I was informed that since Frontex’s arrival, they have replaced the local policeman in interviewing refugees. Some individuals note that this has been a positive move as many Frontex staff speak multiple languages, therefore reducing the cultural and language barriers that were an issue prior to their arrival. However, local staff have also criticised Frontex’s lack of transparency. Local staff are denied knowledge of the questions posed to refugees, and though this wasn’t presented as an overbearing issue, it was noted by various individuals nonetheless.

Although I couldn’t directly engage with the refugees, my visit to the room designated as a recreational haven for them was a moment I won’t forget. What impacted me the most during this experience was a flipboard adorned with the heartfelt aspirations of refugees, outlining ‘three things I aspire to achieve in 5 years’. Their desires painted a poignant picture: “I want to work with the UNCHR to help”, “try to become a peac maker”, “help the poor children in Africa”, “to have a better life”, “a life with my family”, “I want to travel with my family”, “I want marriage and family”, “boxing, cricket and football”, “I want to expand my business”. You’ll notice that many of these messages are focused on family, finding love and helping others – the simplest of things for privileged individuals. It’s astonishing that those who possess the least material wealth are the ones driven to extend help to others in need.

Day 9-10: Macedonia’s Political System Today                                              17-18/08/23

It was especially hot today, so after my daily 30 minute commute by bicycle, I was relieved at the thought of being able to sit down and relax at Legis. However, reality took a different turn as Jasmina (Legis Project Manager) launched into an unexpected and intense two-hour lecture on Macedonia’s political system – something I remain very grateful for. Although I greatly appreciate Jasmina’s informative talks, the sudden deep dive into a two-hour lesson caught me off guard and struck me as quite amusing. From my recollection, Jasmina covered topics such as Greece’s perspective on refugees (anti-refugee, pro-nationalism) and the rampant corruption that plagued Macedonia’s political landscape, attributed to the former Prime Minister, Nikola Gruevski.

While the political system of Macedonia is officially categorised as “parliamentary” on paper, Jasmina revealed that this label couldn’t be further from the truth. The public administration sector stands as Macedonia’s largest employer. Employees within this sector often find themselves deeply intertwined with politics and frequently align themselves with Macedonian political parties. It’s a common practice for these individuals to rally their families to vote for the same political parties they support, effectively magnifying the influence of these parties in elections. This strategy inflates the number of votes cast, exceeding the unbiased population figures. With Macedonia’s population hovering around 2 million, around 900,000 votes makes a government, which approximately amounts to the number of those working in public administration plus their family. Arguably, this is what leads to a win for any political party. These figures, albeit approximate, underscore the inherent flaw in the system that enables corruption to persist.

This systemic issue played a pivotal role in Nikola Gruevski’s audacious embezzlement of 11 billion pounds from Macedonia’s coffers. Upon his escape, he sought “political asylum” in Hungary, a request that was granted under the condition that he invest a substantial portion of his wealth in Hungary’s economy. To evade prosecution, Gruevski resorted to bribing prosecutors, causing deliberate delays in the legal proceedings. This strategic manoeuvre exploited the time limits imposed by the Macedonian constitution for prosecuting criminals, effectively allowing him to escape justice. Astonishingly, Gruevski now holds a position as an adviser in Deutsche Bank in Budapest, and has even published a doctoral thesis detailing the intricacies of his criminal escape plan.

Day 11: Women in Rural Macedonia                                                                     21/08/23

Today marks the submission deadline for the ‘Balkan Peacebuilding Project’ proposal. Therefore, from today onwards, Legis will be working on empowering women in rural Macedonia who have little skills nor access to basic facilities nearby such as healthcare. Often their husbands will travel elsewhere in the country for seasonal work, leaving behind the women with very little to do. A previous success story is a woman who was able to learn to drive who created a service equivalent to ‘uber’. She now acts as the transport link for women in her local area.

Day 12-13: Emergency Relief Projects & More                                               22-23/08/23

During the crisis in 2015-16, Jasmin, in his capacity as the President of Legis, actively engaged in fieldwork alongside refugees, dedicating day and night to this cause. His presence at the border and in refugee camps, as a prominent public figure and human rights defender, had a demonstrably positive impact on the attitudes of the police working in those camps.

This crisis was manufactured by the government, with the intention of justifying the declaration of a State of emergency in Parliament, thereby granting increased powers to the police and enabling the construction of refugee camps. Videos from this period vividly captured the brutality of the police towards refugees. Jasmin’s responsibility was not only to report these instances of brutality to internal oversight authorities and the OSCE mission in Skopje but also, on numerous occasions, to physically intervene to prevent police officers from committing acts of violence and to assist with crowd control. Concurrently, the OSCE mission in Skopje organised training programs for the broader police force and extended an invitation to Jasmin to serve as one of the trainers.

It’s truly inspiring to see that Legis’ compassion for all human life goes beyond the borders of Macedonia. Legis responds to both national and international humanitarian crises. For example, when a devastating earthquake struck Turkey, Legis swiftly responded with emergency aid by dispatching a 20-ton lorry and assisting 11 other lorries in making the journey from Macedonia to Turkey. Just one week later, Jasmin and his wife Merhisa provided food to those in dire need. Legis has consistently played an active role in international humanitarian missions, including the 2011 mission in Somalia and, more recently, the response to the Turkey earthquake.

In addition to providing emergency relief, Legis also manages several ongoing projects funded by external partners. One such project focuses on educating children about internet safety. It’s heartening to know that Jasmin made sure this training was made available not only at his own school but also for his two younger daughters.  Moreover, Legis doesn’t just offer practical humanitarian aid and educational initiatives; it also plays a significant role in changing attitudes and culture. For instance, Legis runs a remarkable project called ‘From the East with Love,’ which aims to combat xenophobia and racism by involving volunteers from the Middle East who showcase their talents and crafts.

Day 14: Essential Item Distribution                                                                       24/08/23

Today I helped organise packages of essential items for Legis to distribute to those suffering from mobility issues, with the help of Emina (a female team member at Legis, self-described as the go-to person for handling a diverse array of tasks). Those in need of this support include the elderly and disabled, which prevents them from travelling to Legis headquarters to collect the packages for themselves. We embarked on a girls trip to purchase the items we needed (myself, Emina and Jasmin’s two daughters – Daliya and Amelia). As previously mentioned, Jasmin is the President of the organisation. Much of the day was spent assembling packages and taking count of stock which I was able to use as an opportunity to help the young girls with their maths skills. This was very sweet and I bonded with the two girls, so much so that the younger one would hover around me over the coming days which again, was very sweet.

The younger girl is very mischievous, whereas the older girl appears to be quiet but observant. I explained to her how people can often say ‘history’ is boring, but it isn’t boring for those who are interested in how it can explain why things are the way they are today. With a big smile, she responded by informing me “that’s exactly what my dad says”. Her relationship with her father is very sweet and you can see she hangs on every word he says as he educates her on history and politics. Despite her young age, she accompanies her father to refugee camp visitations. Though she is very young, it’s because of this relationship that she is so mature for her age with a high level of intellectual curiosity – something that reflects the relationship I had with my own father at a young age. Most days that I have worked at Legis, walking past Jasmin’s office, I would see the two young girls working on their homework with Jasmin, or engaging with him as he works. I didn’t manage to get a picture of the older girl, but the younger, more mischievous one participated in a photoshoot as you can see below. I felt it significant to document my experience of the people that work at Legis, because they really are the heart of the organisation and their commitment and dedication shines through in everything that they do. I will look back to my time here with fond memories, and miss them dearly! I hope to return one day. 

Donate 5 iftars for 1000 denars online at this link:

https://ecrowd.mk/…/0e10a656-2e8a-49c8-98c4-4857dfcc96f8

Or to the following giro account:

210065044340153 NLB Bank AD Skopje

I decided to volunteer in North Macedonia, because I have a close relationship to Balkan states, and I really like Balkan people. Also, because I wanted to try humanitarian work in another country then mine. And I choose Macedonia despite, I had opportunities to volunteer in other countries, because in other countries it wasn´t work with that target group of refugees and migrants.

I found out about Legis through my University, which cooperates with Legis. Time spend in Legis was as my practical training during 29.8-18.11.2022
I had a chance to be with Legis in Gevgelija in transit camp. We were painting a playfield for children, to have a pleasant environment in the camp. It was a great opportunity for me to visit this camp.
I am really glad, that I could see a part of how humanitarian aid in North Macedonia works.

In my career development this experience contributes to my previous decision to work with this target group in future. Also, I decided to learn more about this target group and it´s specifics. I think this experience will also help me to understand more to the theoretic part of this job, that I am learning at my faculty.
I would definitely recommend volunteering with refugees/ migrants. It is very enriching, and you can learn many things. And it is really meaningful.
My experience in North Macedonia also inspired me to continue with work (as volunteer or part time job) with refugees/migrants in my country.

In the past six years, Legis was open for local and foreign volunteers.
We had 32 volunteers from different countries as: USA, Germany, France,
Italy, Spain, Israel, Poland, Czech Republic, Austria, Belgium, Estonia,
Singapore, Slovenia, Canada, Great Britain.
But the recent pandemic has stopped the movement and with that the
volunteers also.
Still, during the pandemic, we were happy to host a volunteer from
Italy.
Alessandro Ramazzoti was the first one who, beside the risk from virus,
wanted to be part of our team in the period of April and May 2021. We
are very grateful and proud of him for his work and contribution, but
also for his ideas and efforts to understand our work and the society of
North Macedonia. He also wrote a note for his experience in Legis, that
you can read below:

Volunteer abroad during a pandemic: why not?

Hello! I’m Alessandro, from Italy. I’ve been volunteering at Legis between the end of March and the beginning of May 2021.

It was the end of January when I first thought about volunteering. The news coming from the Balkans – especially from the Bosnia-Croatia border – were terrifying: migrants, refugees living in camps without basic hygiene facilities, without access to food and clothes, and exposed to rigid winter temperatures. “Why should I not go there to help?”, I thought, and started searching for organizations operating on the so-called “Balkan route”.

My plan was to graduate in March – in international law, with a special interest for human rights – and soon after engage in a volunteering activity. Time was running fast and the current Covid-19 pandemic did not help to organize the whole thing. I had to find an organization ready to welcome volunteers, to complete all the bureaucratic procedures and finally hope that volunteering could be considered a “valid reason to travel” – missing which I could not exit from Italy. All of this in about one and a half months, while thinking about the thesis dissertation that would end my university career. It was a stressful period indeed.

Legis was among the organizations I found. They told me the activities with migrants at the transit camps could not be carried out because of the pandemic, but that help was nevertheless provided to the poor people in Skopje. The bureaucratic procedure to start volunteering did not require much time, nor many documents. It sounded like what I was searching for.

That is how, on the 22^nd of March, I found myself on a train headed to Bari, from where I took a ferry to Durres and finally a bus to Skopje. Here I was, incredibly!

                                                  The port of Bari: before boarding the ferry to Durres

Now, at the moment I’m writing, few days are left before my departure and I can say, without doubts, that my experience here was amazing! I met wonderful people, both here at Legis and elsewhere. Macedonian people are very welcoming, the food is tasty and peculiar, and there are enchanting landscapes to please the eyes. The word “macedonia”, in Italian, means “fruit-salad” and the country can be rightly compared to the latter: many different lifestyles, cultures and traditions are mixed in this small country, as different fruits are mixed in a bowl.

The old town (?aršia) of Skopje from the fortress

The activities at Legis did not meet the expectations I had in January, when I figured myself aiding people living in the adverse conditions at the so-called “transit camps”. But they fully met the expectations I had in March, just before leaving home: indeed, the emails I received from Legis expressly stated that activities at the camps were temporarily suspended. Nevertheless, it was a truly enhancing experience! I couldn’t have asked for more – in the present conditions. Every day we helped the people who cannot afford decent standards of life here in Skopje: we gave bread, clothes or, from time to time, other items that they needed. For most of the time I was here, Muslims were celebrating the Holy Month of the Ramadan: that – for what concerns Legis’ work – meant more donors and more supplies. We distributed hot meals (iftars) on every other day, which were very much appreciated by the people, who came numerous to receive it. The people were communicative and smiled a lot – although with the face-masks on; many of them spoke a few words in German, Italian, or English and did not hesitate to show their skills off: I had interesting talks with them even if some times they started speaking a fluid “makedonskij”, which I could not understand.

Legis’ main door (on the right)

With my great luck, we also had the opportunity to go to Gevgelija – where a transit camp is located at the border with Greece – to bring (mostly) clothes. The journey to the south was very pleasant: as I wrote above, Macedonian landscapes enchant the eye, and the talks with Jasmin were definitely entertaining. Visiting the camp was a strange, but nevertheless interesting experience. What initially shocked me were the vehicles of any kind (trucks, cars, vans) “parked” inside the camp: they were those used by smugglers to help people cross the border… and they were many!

Activities with the people could not be carried out and therefore we just walked through the camp, looking at the various structures the function of which was, step after step, explained by Jasmin. Walking next to the containers where the people-on-the-move were accommodated, under their enquiring eyes, I felt a bit uneasy; mainly because I was just observing them without being able to help/support/entertain anyhow. Except for this feeling, the visit was good. It was especially interesting to watch the children’s drawings on the playroom walls. Some of them depicted, through children’s eyes, the experience they had gone through: police, boats at sea, and walls were recurring images.

One child’s drawing in Gevgelija

Talking about the migrants’ situation, I was put in contact with Jasmina and Avni, Legis’ workers in the transit camps of Gevgelija and Tabanovce respectively. Every day, for the month of April, they sent me their reports on the movements at the camp: how many people arrived, how many stayed, and whether they had access to food, medical services and hygiene facilities. Thanks to this I had an idea about the movement of people in Macedonia, which made me feel involved even if from far away.

Apart from the visit at Gevgelija, I had the opportunity to visit – at least from the outside – the Detention Centre of Gazi Baba, scene of infamous events in the past. We regularly brought meals, or food packages there. Located on the hill of Gazi Baba, it has an amazing view on the city.

We also brought some food and other items to the Center for Asylum Seekers in Vizbegovo: there I heard shocking stories about the migrants’ journey and appreciated the resilience they showed. Indeed, we once brought there the material needed to build a construction for cats. Why? What help does it bring to their situation? It helps them to remain human, to feel human, after the abuses they suffered. For this purpose, we also organized a juggling show: at the hostel where I stayed, there were three jugglers from South America, who kindly brightened the asylum-seekers’ day with their mesmerizing juggling skills.

So far, I described few general and peculiar experiences, but there are many others that I cannot – for reasons of space – share here. However, I want to say something more about the people here at Legis, because if I’m here happily writing about this month and a half in Macedonia, it is mainly thanks to them. Every day I was welcomed at Legis’ headquarters by their friendly attitude, that helped restore the energies I spent walking from the hostel (half an hour walk!). It’s impossible to get bored in their company: jokes are frequent and their teachings about the Macedonian lifestyle, history, politics, and traditions allowed me to understand this country in a special way that no other people could do. I’m very thankful for that! They also gave me valuable insights on the migrants’ situation that compensated – to a certain extent – the fact that activities at the camps were not allowed. I met a great number of interesting people here at Legis, all of whom have somehow entertained me with good talks and stories, or just welcomed me with smiling eyes; I will not forget them!

Concluding this very brief account of my experience as a volunteer at Legis, I would like to say that coming here was one of the craziest, but most successful plans I’ve engaged in during my (short) life. It was just one month and a half, but I lived incredible experiences – although some of them limited by the ongoing pandemic. Sometimes I felt like I was useless here, just piling bread to distribute to a bunch of people – not exactly what I had in mind in January. But I finally understood I was wrong because volunteering with a local organization of this kind means everything: from piling bread for locals to entertaining asylum-seekers; from hearing news about the people-on-the-move to filling boxes with pasta, sausages and shampoo. And each of these moments must be appreciated because somehow, you’re contributing to help someone. That’s the beauty of it!

Hvala Makedonija i hvala mlogu Legis! Se gledame naskoro!

Here you can find Alessandro Ramazzoti final report 

“Volunteering for LEGIS has been one of my best experiences. I always looked forward to coming into the camp and seeing other volunteers, staff and especially the refugees who were staying in Tabanovce. The refugees would come to our computer corner to use the IT equipment. One day, one of the Afghani refugees wanted to introduce us to their traditional music. I will never forget his joyful face listening to the music that would bring him closer to home. Being at the camp, I had an opportunity to witness how LEGIS, throughout their work has been giving and continues giving voice to the voiceless. As a volunteer, I could not have been more satisfied and proud to have joined an organisation that positively impacts human lives”

The great refugee wave of 2015-2016 that happened in the territory of the Republic of Macedonia, as a transit country on the final destination route for the refugees, represents a major historical movement of people that the world has not seen since the Second World War as such.  Not only the Republic of Macedonia, but also all the countries on the Balkan refugee route to the most developed countries in the European Union, found themselves unprepared to deal with such a large number of people moving through state borderlines.  Therefore, the receiving and transit countries had no other choice in the beginning than to rely on humane citizens, humanitarian volunteers, and charity non-governmental organizations that offered assistance to the unfortunate refugees.

The NGO Legis volunteers started their activities to help refugees who transited the Republic of Macedonia in October 2014.  Thus, we were ready and organized to deal with the great refugee wave of 2015.  In addition to its volunteers and donors, NGO Legis also relied on foreign volunteers and donors, coordinating all assistance intended for refugees among domestic and foreign volunteers, in cooperation with state institutions involved in the field.  The trust shown to NGO Legis by all the volunteers, regardless of whether they were individuals or groups, locals or foreigners, regardless of their national, ethnic, religious, political or ideological affiliation, suggests that the single humane goal – helping people in distress, unites individuals of different background and emphasizes only their positive values and similarities, and that is, above all, empathy and philanthropy.

In context of this electronic magazine that is part of the project “Youths acting for solidarity” funded by the Foundation Open Society – Macedonia, we briefly present the experiences of volunteers who were or are still involved in helping refugees, have worked or collaborated with NGO Legis.  Each of them tells his or her story about the engagement, the motive, and the interaction with other volunteers in the teams, eventually giving their advice and recommendations to current and future volunteers, based on their positive experiences.  Although the number of volunteers who assisted the refugees was higher in late 2015 and early 2016, we singled out just a part of these stories, for the sake of time and resources, as an initial motivation for all who are interested in this topic.

These are the stories as told by some of the best humanitarian volunteers.  Please, do read them.

To download the electronic magazine, click here

Volunteer Story

Hi, I am Ulrike, a 23-year-old student from Belgium. Middle of June, I travelled to Macedonia for three weeks of volunteering with Legis, in the context of my master’s thesis within the Master in Conflict and Development at Ghent University, but also more in general for an interesting experience.

I have volunteered in Gevgelija, at the southern border, in Tabanovce, at the northern border and in Skopje. In Gevgelija, I have good memories of playing with the children, for example one afternoon we made bracelets, and in Tabanovce, I learned a new card game from three young refugees.

I learned a lot from this experience: about refugees, about transit, about volunteering and of course, about Macedonia. I also met a lot of people: refugees, people from Legis and other workers in the transit centers, locals, etc. Each with their own interesting story to share with me. This is what I will remember most, all these warm encounters.

Because of the good experience I had, I would therefore definitely recommend volunteering to others. That can be in Macedonia, with Legis, but probably also in your own country or even your own city, there are refugees/migrants and other people who can use your help. I will definitely volunteer again in the future.

I want to thank all people I met for contributing to the great experience I had and which I would not have had without them. Thank you and I hope to see you again, in Macedonia, in Belgium or who knows where else!

All the best.

Greetings,

Ulrike

Volunteering at Tabanovce refugee camp.

Volunteer Story by Annika Peterson

When I said to my friends and family that I will be spending my summer volunteering in a refugee camp in Macedonia, many of them were confused why I want to do it and some were even concerned about my safety. People have many prejudices about refugees/migrants, often they are very harsh. I think it is like that because people are afraid and they do not have a lot of knowledge about this topic.

The two months I spent volunteering in the camp changed my thinking also. Even though, I came here with an open mind and passion to help people, in back of my mind, I also was a bit worried, how it will be and how the people in the camp will be.

Tabanovce camp is a transit center, which is 400 metres from the border of Serbia. At the moment it does not have many people there. People usually stay only for few nights there to rest and continue their journey after that. The number of people staying in a camp varies every day. During my time there, it was mostly around 20 people. Some days the number of migrants reached until 70.

I have to say that I was positively suprised every day. Even though at the moment the people, who are in the camp are mostly economic migrants, they still need our help and understanding. I was suprised how genuine and friendly they are. They all just want to get to a country, where they are safe and have better quality of life than what they had back home.

During the two months volunteering at the Tabanovce refugee camp, I met many interesting people and had fascinating conversations with them. It was interesting to hear their stories. Some of them have been walking for a long-long time. Reaching Tabanovce means that they are almost in the EU and soon they will reach their destination, whether it is Germany, Italy or some other country.

I am thankful that I was part of Legis team for the two months in the camp. People in Legis really want to help people in need and to educate the public more about the refugee problems we are facing. I really enjoyed my time in the camp and I hope to be back in the future to work together with them again.

Volunteering with Legis

From 15 of February until 23 of March 2018, Legis was the host of Jessica Blanarik, a volunteer from the US. During this period, Legis carried out educational and social support activities aimed at the refugees/migrants residing in the Tabanovce Transit Center. In particular, Jessica was giving English lessons to a group of refugees/migrants who had no previous knowledge of English. This activity has been quite beneficial for the residents since in the end, they managed to acquire an elementary level of English, which they will certainly need regardless of their decision to stay in Macedonia or leave.

On the last day of her volunteering term, Legis staff threw a small party in order to thank Jessica for her contribution to our programme activities and efforts she had invested in the aforementioned period. That being said, Driton Maliqi, Legis’ field coordinator, gave Jessica a certificate of appreciation for having volunteered with Legis.

This activity has proved to be important and useful for the refugees since they never missed a class which suggests their interest in learning the language. Therefore, Legis will continue implementing these joint educational activities performed by our staff and volunteers.

All those who would like to support these activities can donate online on our website on the following link: http://legis.mk/donate.

My name is Siôn Rickard. I come from a village called Betws-y-Coed in Snowdonia, North Wales.  I’m an actor, musician and writer. I also work as a Teaching Assistant in schools.

Like many I’ve been shocked, saddened and frequently, outraged at the continuing plight of migrants and refugees seeking sanctuary in Europe. I wanted to help in some way, and to learn and improve my understanding in the process.

Why did I choose Macedonia?  Well, first and foremost I wanted to go where help was needed. I was aware that many refugees had passed through the Balkans, and that conditions there, in the winter, could be unforgiving. I also had to factor in my living costs; people in my line of work don’t tend to earn much money; but in comparison to most of Europe, Macedonia is very affordable.

I discovered LEGIS through an internet search, liked what I saw, and dropped them an email. The reply came quickly and the application process was simple and straightforward.

I was to start in December, so left London late November, got a Flixbus as far as Austria, then hitchhiked to Skopje, Macedonia’s capital.

In total, I spent four days on the road. A flight would probably only have taken a couple of hours, but then I’d have missed out on meeting some strange and interesting people, and watching the landscape evolve from ground level.

I’d been forewarned that, since the Balkan route was now officially closed, there would be very few migrants at the camp. It was true. On the day of my first shift there were only twelve; and initially I wondered whether my presence was even needed. However, I soon came to realise that if I was proactive and used initiative there was plenty that I could do to help.

Some days there were as few as eight people in the camp, other days as many as twenty. Some stayed for weeks, some for days; others arrived, accepted supplies, then continued on almost immediately.

They came from many varied walks of life, each with their own story, their own set of circumstances.

 Inevitably given their situation, most were physically and emotionally drained; worn down; or bored. They had internet access, and a few basic activities were on offer, but living within the confines of grey perimeter fencing and razor wire, can easily become monotonous.

I quickly came to realise that one of the most valuable things I could offer was attentive company and gentle emotional support. Of course there were those who preferred to be alone, but some really appreciated the fact I was up for conversation.

 Not long after I first arrived, a smiling Afghan man named Abdul-Karim eagerly filled me in on the latest gossip surrounding Meghan Markle and the British Royal Family, and was keen to hear my opinion on things.

A short while later, Azhar from Pakistan, took it upon himself to educate me a little about some of the shadier political characters in his country, and the nature of the geo-political relationship between Pakistan and the UK.

Naturally there was often a language barrier but this didn’t seem to matter. Sometimes it was nice just to share in someone’s company.

I also found that music was a good way to connect. For a few days there was a man at the camp named Kamal, a Painter /Decorator who had fled a Taliban dominated area of Pakistan. He was gentle natured and quiet; sometimes seemingly lost in his own thoughts; and I think, very sad.

One afternoon I was entertaining a few migrants and NGO workers with some songs and my ukulele. Kamal listened with polite intensity, and then asked if he may respond, in kind, with a song of his own; a Punjabi song he’d learnt at a young age. He held us. We were transfixed with the beauty and purity of his voice.

He and I shared songs, several times, during the course of his stay; me singing traditional Welsh songs, and Kamal, songs from Pakistan and India. Whenever he sang it was as though a weight was lifted from him, and in that moment, there was only the music.

 For a while, none of the migrants coming through were women or children, until one evening, as the temperature slid below zero, a young Syrian family dragged their weary feet into the camp.

There was Noor, in her early twenties, Hamid, her husband of around the same age, their children Mahmood-Ali (3 years) and Mustafa (9 months), and 17 year old Zahir; brother to Hamid.

It’s a tragedy for any family to find themselves in such a position, but the life and energy of the children brightened the camp and lifted our spirits. The family spoke little English, but were fluent in German, having taken refuge there for the past four years.

Maybe they’d been granted asylum, maybe not. Either way they were now heading for a new life in Turkey, to be with Hamid and Zahir’s dying mother.

A substantial chunk of the journey so far had been made on foot, in part due to their financial limitations, but also because Zahir hadn’t any travel documents.

Needless to say, Noor and Hamid were exhausted, and welcomed any help with looking after the children.

Generally, I left baby Mustafa to those with babying experience; and instead, spent many hours trying to keep up with the boundless energy of little Mahmood-Ali. Driven by a pioneering spirit, and thirst for adventure he would run off at every given opportunity. He loved to climb things, make loud noises, to run around picking things off the floor, attempting to put them in his mouth before I could stop him, and dogs; he loved dogs.

He was particularly fond of Myka, a sweet natured stray who basically belonged to the camp. Regrettably, Mahmood-Ali, being 3, had yet to discover the concept of playing gently, and Myka soon learned to run whenever she heard him coming.

 I decided to explore the idea of gentle and rough with Mahmood-Ali using a small drum. Zahir kindly taught me the Arabic words for ‘gentle’ and ‘rough’, and I encouraged Mahmood-Ali, first to hit the drum softly, then really hard; softly then really hard.

He enjoyed this game. It was a whole five minutes before he went running off to look for Myka. Another game we’d play was one I’ll call ‘Monsters’. The rules were simple; we’d take it in turns to be monsters, and chase each other. This was his favourite game, especially when it was my turn to run away. He could pull a monster face and roar to a professional standard.

For all the fun we had, I remained mindful not to get in the way of Hamid, when it came to father-son bonding time; and Mahmood-Ali would make it known, loud and clear, when he’d had enough playing with me, and wanted time with Mama and Baba.

I enjoyed getting to know the family a little over the short time they were at the camp; amusing Noor with my attempts at Arabic, listening to Eminem with Zahir; and later, helping him work on his English, using a series of possibly confusing doodles.

But, eventually it was time for them to move on. The police took them as far as the Greek border, which they crossed on foot. Then they were gone.

I hope they made it to Turkey. I hope they’re safe now, with all the family together, finally building the life they yearned for their children. It isn’t easy crossing borders.

Minding unruly 3 year olds was far from my only job at the camp. I would greet people as they arrived and do my best to make them feel welcome and comfortable. They were usually freezing, hungry and, often, in need of medical attention, which would be administered by the Red Cross.

I’d teach ukulele and harmonica; assist with art therapy sessions; engage the refugees with games such as volleyball; help relay information between the refugees and various NGOs (making sure people knew where to get the legal advice they needed etc.); keep an eye out for anyone potentially at risk of harming themselves, or others; and assist my LEGIS colleagues with acquiring and distributing decent footwear (many of the refugees arrive with shoes that don’t fit or are falling apart).

 The people I worked with at LEGIS were fantastic and made me feel very welcome. They were the ones working on the frontline at the height of the crisis, and their knowledge and experience was invaluable. They also knew all the best bakeries in Kumanovo and would share tasty things with me.

I can honestly say, that despite my misgivings on day one, volunteering with LEGIS turned out to be one of the most rewarding things I’ve ever done.

More importantly, it gave me the opportunity to help people going through an incredibly difficult time; and hopefully to make some sort of a difference.

It was a privilege. It made me realise how lucky I am to be in a position to help; and I really mean it when I say that. I got more out of it than I could put in. I learnt a great deal, made brilliant friends, and came away feeling more positive about myself.

However, it also hammered home, to me, how grossly imbalanced the world is; and that the circumstances you’re handed at birth really do dictate your options in life.

Going forward from this experience I’m keen to volunteer again, in the near future. It might not be in the news as much now, but the crisis is far from over.

** All the names of people featured have been changed in respect of privacy.